900 year old wall paintings and two windmills
The listed buildings of Clayton in 50 pictures
By Ian Mulcahy
Clayton is a small West Sussex village at the northern foot of the South Downs close to the border with East Sussex. Administratively, the village is part of Hassocks, a mile to the north. The village, whose name derives from the old English words ‘Claeg’, meaning ‘clay’ and ‘tun’ meaning ‘farm’ (The farm on the clay) is a Saxon settlement and is recorded in the Domesday Book as being large village with 31 households and a church. It is now home to 6 listed buildings, so I decided to start my little tour right in the heart of the village, parking the car in a handy little car park opposite the church that serves the recreation ground. On a disappointingly cloudy day, which wasn’t particularly good for taking nice photographs, I started at the small Parish Church of St. John the Baptist.
This small church originated in the early 11th century, when the Nave and part of the chancel were constructed with the eastern third of the chancel being added in the mid-13th century. With the exception of the vestry, to the south, which is a relatively modern 19th century addition, and the porch little has changed since the small 12th century chapels to the north and south of the nave were removed in the late 1300s. The, now filled, archway to the northern chapel can still be seen on the external wall of the nave and has a small window in its place and, if you looks closely from the outside, the faint triangle point of the chapel’s roofline can be seen. Remnants of both archways can be seen inside. The archway from the nave to the chancel is an 11th century original, as is the archway over the northern entrance to the church inside the 15th century porch. The door is of Norman origin. The lychgate was built in 1921 as a memorial to the men of Clayton who went to fight in the Great War and never returned.
The main attraction of the church are the internal paintings on the walls of the nave, described by Paul Coppin in his 2006 book 101 Medieval Churches of West Sussex, as ”some of the most important in the country”, which date back to between 1100 & 1150 and were discovered during renovations in 1893. It is believed that the artists were the monks from St Pancras Priory in nearby Lewes. The paintings are true frescos, that is they were painted onto wet plaster. Above the 11th century chancel arch is a seated representation of Christ, supported on each side by angels who are themselves flanked by 6 apostles each, apparently in conversation. Below are images of Christ passing a book to St Paul, to the right of the arch, and keys to St Peter on the left. The side walls are less clear, but include images of one of the Horsemen of the Apocalypse who appears to be trampling a man under hoof with an audience either side, angels blowing trumpets, a representation of the walled city of Jerusalem, A group of angels and bishops and St Michael standing next to the cross.
To the west of the lychgate, on Underhill Lane, is Hillside, an early 19th century cottage and to the south west of the church is Southdown Lodge, another 19th century house. A short walk to the east of the church is the substantial Clayton Manor. Formerly known as The Parsonage, the small range closest to the lane was built in the 18th century, with the larger rear ranges being added during the 19th. Just round the corner is Clayton Castle, a large 17th century or earlier timber framed house which has been refaced in tile and painted brick at the front and side, but whose timbers remain visible at the rear. The building has never been a castle, but is a former inn which is where the name may well derive from.
Taking the southbound footpath from opposite the car park and climbing up to the Downs will lead the walker to the buildings that most people will know Clayton for, i.e. Jack & Jill, the windmills on the hill above the village. What perhaps they might not know is that the remains of a third windmill, Duncton Mill, are also on the site and this is the oldest of the three, having been built in 1765. The windmill was demolished in 1866 leaving just the roundhouse base surviving as a store.
The second oldest is Jill, the restored and fully functioning westerly mill that is open to the public and which will be most familiar to visitors. A post mill which was originally built in 1821 on a site in Brighton, Jill was dismantled and transported by a team of oxen to her present location on the downs where she was reassembled in the 1850’s. Jack, less than 100 metres to the east of Jill, is a 5 storey brick tower mill that was built in 1866 adjacent to the remains of, and as a replacement for, Duncton Mill. Both mills ceased to be worked commercially in 1906 and were purchased in 1917 by Minna Anson who lived in Jack for the rest of her life while Jill was left idle. In 1953 Henry Longhurst, a broadcaster and golfing correspondent for The Times became the new owner of the mills and after initially living in Jack, he built a house between the two mills in 1963 which was subsequently rebuilt in 2016. The house is not included in the statutory listing of the mills.
In the 1970’s Mr Longhurst gave Jill over to public ownership and volunteer led restoration commenced in 1978, leading to flour being produced for the first time in 80 years in 1986. Jack remains in private ownership. I hope to return to the Clayton area soon to update these photos with some lit by sunlight with a blue sky backdrop.
Sources
Text & photographs © Ian Mulcahy. Photos taken on 11 August 2018. Contact photos@iansapps.co.uk or visit my 'Use of my photographs' page for licensing queries. |
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